Here's how to fix the power harness on your 002r..

[PaddyNixon]

Hi Guys,

My guide on power harness trouble with the 002r have been posted at this link http://www.tentenland.net/002rHarnessFix.jpg courtesy of Jeff - also a forum member.

I took the photos whilst I was fixing my own unit and Jeff obliged by posting the details.

Please let any others you know who may be having trouble/power harness trouble ie to go to this site http://www.tentenland.net/002rHarnessFix.jpg

It would also be nice if people could post back to say if the guidelines were of any use to them.

PS When you follow this link you must direct your mouse to the bottom right hand corner of the document and click on the icon to expand it to its original size

[Ducky]

Nice to see someone finally posting a picture and instructions for this.

The black 'Thingy' is a capacitor, something that sucks a whole lot of juice when the power supply is powered up. Now I can easily see why these fail. Yes, a much better connector should be put there but Digidesign obviously buys these power supllies from the orient somewhere and they are probably tin plated and corrode easily. Every time you power up the OO2 these contacts take on a huge powerload for a momnent. If they is any corrosion whatsoever, it sparks a little, adding to the corrosion. This is a lot loke your car battery when the ternminals are worn out, you turn over the key and a small puff of smoke comes from the terminal and all you heard was a 'click' and everything dies. I hope Digidesign has opted for the best bronze terminals available in the cable harness to maintain the best contact. It seems they have also started 'gooping' these with anti-corrosion compound (removing the oxigen from the sparks). I guess if you're only willing to spend $20- on a power supply, you get what you pay for. Funny how there's no EMI screening on this supply either?!? Hmmmmmm.....

[PaddyNixon]

Thanx for that Ducky - at least now I know that someone appreciates the trouble I went to.

I also sent my photos and guide to at least 20 other people personally (those who contacted me by e mail) - I would like them to acknowledge this on this thread so that DIGI know that they should do a 'PROPER' version of this fix to include photos as well.

BY THE WAY DIGI GUYS - No-one on this forum as far as I can ascertain are against you - they are only crying out for PRACTICAL ASSISTANCE - ie photos and stuff etc etc.

We all appreciate your knowledge and help but 'If A Picture Speaks A Thousand Words........Then Why The Hell Can't You????..'

My photos and guidance are most probably very raw and unprofessional - so why don't you guys do it properly and just add a link - without liability as that seems to be the problem - to a specific place where exact,safe and detailed instructions are given for replacement. It doesn't have to be a secret because sooner rather than later someone will post your instructions on a site somewhere so that others know how to do a DIY fix. Remember this - when the unit is down - there is no recording being done - a lot of times that means no money is being made - the only thing it makes is a lot of people angry, confused and annoyed! I now have a document in my hand which I must sign and fax back to DIGI releasing them from all liability for a DIY fix if they send me a new harness. I don't mind that BUT it would make it SOOOOOOOOOOOoo much easier if we could all visit a DIGI site where photos and instructions were available. Also a lot safer!

I think it's a good idea anyway!????????

Once again here is the link if you need it - AND once again - courtesy of Jeff another forum member who assisted me with this http://www.tentenland.net/002rHarnessFix.jpg

Don't forget to put your cursor over the bottom right hand corner of the document and then click on '...expand to original size...'

PS By the way Ducky - I knew it was a capacitor but I didn't want to sound like a smarty pants I was just trying to make it easy for anyone who had never seen the inside of a scary machine like this before.

[Boombatty]

I haven't had to do anything....YET... but I have read about it a lot and I do appreciate having this resource too!

Thank you very much!

[volts]

Paddy- Thanks for going to the trouble of making CLEAR pics and instructions for the power harness. I know a lot of people have gotten anxious and have started pulling wires without taking note of what wire goes where. Hmmm--let see--now where did that "blue" wire go? Thanks to your intervention I have found the recent posts on this issue very interesting—particularly from Digi Administrator. In all of the fog I ponder why these connections are just soldered in the first place. Perhaps it wouldn’t solve the corrosion problem and in that sense could be worse in that one would have to actually unsolder connections. Anyway…thanks again. Would it be considered tacky to offer a pint of Guinness to a true Irishman?

[PaddyNixon]

I don't care how tacky anyone else thinks it is - BRING THE GUINNESS ON!!!!!!

Cheers!

[krofa]

Dear Paddy,

Thank you for the information and the page you posted.

The thing happened to me just today. The symptom was that the SampleRate LED was blinking on and off randomly. I logged on and did the DUC search and found some resolution possibilities. Since I live in Turkey, I didn't have the luxury of contacting the digi tech support and have them send me a PSU replacement overnight. So I took my chance and went on with your suggestions.

It seems it all went smoothly but with one necessary addition in my case:

I opened the top lid of the 002R and located the power harness. I pulled it out gently. I sprayed some contact cleaner on the contacts within the harness. While plugging the harness back on, I gently pulled it in and out a couple of times to make sure enough contact fluid gets on the pins on the board as well. To not spill the spray onto other surfaces; I used some paper towel in the background of the area I was actually spraying. Well, this didn't seem to help solve the issue at first in my case. Well, I didn't give up right there though.

I looked for other similar power connections from the power supply to the unit. There are two: one (ConA) goes to the upper PCB (Printed Circuit Board - the green thing where everything is soldered onto) and is farther away from the power supply; the other one (ConB) goes to the lower PCB and is right next to the power supply. I did the same procedure for ConA as well. BINGO. The unit hasn't been blinking for two hours now and I hope it will stay so for the rest of its days. For now I don't feel like messing with ConB since that seems to be harder to deal with because of its location.

Thanks again for the info.

Cheers.
Derin.

P.S. Always make sure the unit is powered down and disconnected while doing the plugging in and out. During the procedure, I haphazardly plugged ConA out while the unit was powered up which was a big mistake; this caused the unit to not power up at all, but then I unplugged and replugged ConA while the power switch was turned off and it came back; so watch out...

[RayUSA]

hi Paddy!

Thanks for your post! I think that is exactlly what is wrong with my 002. Keeps cutting out, making clicking noises and "Unable to communicate with 002" pops up on the screen. I thought I was crazy and alone until I read your post.

So, I haven't tried it yet, but is the wiggle/jiggle thing a fairly permanent fix or should I try to replace that faulty part? I live minutes away from DigiDesign headquarters, but even if they did do the repair, would probably charge me a lot for it. Is it fairly easy to open up the 002 and replace that part?

I feel much better now that I at least know what is wrong and that it's not just my 002. +1 Guinness on me!

[METROSTARR]

Does anyone have instructions on opening the 002 mixer version?

[METROSTARR]

Does anyone have instructions on opening the 002 mixer version?