Electrical issues with Control 24 - I have an idea

[Table Syrup Records]

Ok, so I'm sure those of you who have researched this thing have seen the crimp end and molex fix.

My stuff should arive soon. I'm doin that one for sure.

Now, while I'm in there I intend to go a step further this time.

How many of you have noticed the "Chasis" ground on the power supply?

It's the stupid little insulated wire (Mine is green) that runs to the gray metal plate the PS mounts on.

I haven't really lookin inside the rest of the unit for any more chasis grounds, but there may be some.

Here's my thought. It's mounted to a painted surface. Brilliant!

The crimp end of the ground wire is mounted directly against a painted surface.
Beyond that, the painted panel mounts up against the rest of the 24's case which is also painted.

2 bad contacts right there. The screws that go through the pieces can't count cause it's the same scenareo!

I know from a lot of other electronics experience that a bad ground can cause all kinds of failure.
A lot of the time, a slight wiggle will bring it back, temporarily, until next time!
(Car batteries and car stero amplifier grounds are a great example of this!)

Sounds a lot like the issues I'm having with my 24, and I'm willing to bet that all the
static issues I have in my room don't help that any! None of my other gear has issues with it.
I am willing to bet it aggrivates the grounds and other bad connections.

When I'm in swapping out connectors and molexes, I'll be scraping away the paint under all the
chasis grounds I can find, as well as the PS frame & Ctrl 24 frame where they meet, and then
apply a little di-electric grease to keep things nice and clean, I may even do that on each connection for power.

I will also solder in another, longer chasis ground wire to run to the Control 24 case. That may help.
(I'll make it long enough that I can pull the PS out and lay it down while connected)

Anyones thoughts?

I hope I don't have to go as far as replacing all the pins on the circuit boards!

Who built this thing anyway!?

[Hamacek]

Sorry for the bump. Just wondering if there's any developments on this.

[Table Syrup Records]

Clearing paint from some contact points and using a dab of di-electric grease helped somewhat, as well as running a long ground to the chasis. Not sure which of the 2 helped more, probably the wire.

Also, I haven't grounded the chasis to anything (ie, outlet)..... Reason being, the board would be grounded, but I'm still not.

The humidifier seems to be of the most help.

My Control 24 went back to Digi some time ago. Among other things, they installed an entirely new DC wiring harness which has much better crimp connectors. This seems to have helped a lot. Really haven't had any intermittent issues other than a bad monitor board which has since been replaced, but is noisy........ WTF

Ummm.... The wiring harness issue can be done on your own by simply replacing the crimp connectors and molexes, and actually I'm not sure the molex housings even need be replaced, as long as the crimp mate with it.

here is an old post listing some parts, will give you an idea of what you would need: (I can't remember who posted it, but I've saved this in a text file on my desktop)

I have taken it upon myself to keep, update, and distribute this document to
help those having Control 24 issues. Thanx to those who helped provided this information.
I will go back to the DUC and find you and credit you as soon as I can.
Origional provider of the list of components: Dan, ECHO
Redistribution, sourcing & updating this list: Shorty Emcee
Sources for these components: ?????
(Contact sources with a list of the components below)

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Here's the Wiring Harness fix:
Trifurcon™ Crimp Terminal 6838, 18-20 AWG, Bag, Phosphor Bronze Tin (Sn)
molex part number 08-52-0113
trifucon crimp terminal -Mouser Part #: 538-08-52-0113
crimp terminal housing-
2 circuits- 538-09-50-3021
3- 538-09-50-3031
4- 538-09-50-3041
5- 538-09-50-3051
8- 538-09-50-3081
these are molex pins that grip the post so that it will have contact on 3 sides.
I use these on several different machines and found they work on the Control 24
as well.

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Ill second that, we've had no wierd glitches since we replaced the DC leads from
the PSU with new leads and connectors, my guess is that the connectors are loose
enough to allow arcing on the 48v rails causing the PSU to lock

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I was bout to make this repair until a construction incident dumped a bunch of
debris into my faders. Insurance paid for repair at Digi's service center in CA.
Got new faders, new pre's, and get this: A NEW DC WIRING HARNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I no longer needed the fix, but I'll tell ya what..... This works! All my wierd
little glitchy issues are gone now..... so far..... knock on wood...............

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Latest Update to this document: September 15, 2008