AES/EBU vs Analog

[Bookerv12]

Originally Posted by TVPostSound

Ive experimented with a wire coat hanger, and it worked.
As previously stated, it either works 100% or not.

I tried with a wooden coat hanger and it didn't work 100%

[K Roche]

Originally Posted by Bookerv12

I tried with a wooden coat hanger and it didn't work 100%

push it with 220 volt it'll light up your day for a brief period

[aftermid]

OK,
I'm a little confused with EBU/AES is digital only. I've seen analog mixers that have an EBU output to go to an external woofer, for example. What would be the difference there between that and a regular XLR cable doing the same function. Are we talking impedence differences or efficiency?

Also, by looking at an DB25 pin jack cable, how do I know if it is a normal DB25 or EBU/AES? If I don't know what the cable is and connect it to the EBU or the analog incorrectly, would that damage the Omni interface?

[John_Toolbox]

Originally Posted by aftermid

OK,
I'm a little confused with EBU/AES is digital only. I've seen analog mixers that have an EBU output to go to an external woofer, for example. What would be the difference there between that and a regular XLR cable doing the same function. Are we talking impedence differences or efficiency?

Many modern high end powered speakers have their own D/A converters built in, so that's why it had an AES/EBU input. If the speakers have both digital and analog inputs, it's a good idea to try both your interface and the speaker's converters to see if you can hear the difference.

Also, by looking at an DB25 pin jack cable, how do I know if it is a normal DB25 or EBU/AES?

The DB25 jacks on any piece of gear should be labeled, they are either going to be AES/EBU (which has 8 Inputs and 8 outputs), Analog out (8 outputs), or analog in (8 inputs). DB25 - XLR cables are easily identified by the type of XLR connectors they have. If the non DB-25 end has 4 male and 4 female XLR, it is an AES EBU cable.

DB25 - DB25 cables are usually labeled with a part number that you can compare with the manual for the interface you are using them with. Also, the manual will usually have a pinout diagram so you know if a 3rd party cable you might be using is wired correctly.

If I don't know what the cable is and connect it to the EBU or the analog incorrectly, would that damage the Omni interface?

With any cabling you aren't sure what you have, the safest bet is to check part numbers and manuals for all pieces involved and verify pinout with a meter.

[JFreak]

Originally Posted by aftermid

If I don't know what the cable is and connect it to the EBU or the analog incorrectly, would that damage the Omni interface?

No, they are both low-level and obviously won't just work if you try connect digital and analog together.

The only ways you can damage gear by wrong cabling are connecting power amplifier output to line-level or mic-level input, or turning on 48V phantom power when using ribbon mics, or obviously feeding 220V power to audio signal chain (but that last one would require splicing cables and being stupid in so many ways... perhaps The Dudesons could try it though)

[Barry Johns]

Originally Posted by YYR123

No the actual snake is different.
Think of it in the same way a Mono RCA cable that you would use on your home stereo CAN'T BE USED on a SPDIF connection on your OMNI.

Actually they work just fine. I have my Fractal Audio AX8 going spdif to my Omni. I also I have my Omni going SPDIF out to my central station. Both using generic home-based RCA plugs. Works perfectly.

[Top Jimmy]

Originally Posted by Barry Johns

Actually they work just fine. I have my Fractal Audio AX8 going spdif to my Omni. I also I have my Omni going SPDIF out to my central station. Both using generic home-based RCA plugs. Works perfectly.

If you ignore the added interface jitter due to reflections on a cable without matching impedance. For non-critical transfers this isn't an issue. Neither is it an issue for the receiving gear if it regenerates clock. But if the receiving gear uses the incoming PLL'd clock for driving the DA stage, then it definitely is of concern.

[Barry Johns]

Originally Posted by Top Jimmy

If you ignore the added interface jitter due to reflections on a cable without matching impedance. For non-critical transfers this isn't an issue. Neither is it an issue for the receiving gear if it regenerates clock. But if the receiving gear uses the incoming PLL'd clock for driving the DA stage, then it definitely is of concern.

Been doing it for years, never a problem. Spent the money a couple years ago to try the "proper" cable, simply could not tell a difference.

I did the same experiment for AES vs normal XLR, same results.

Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm not, in my test, this was simply a marketing scheme to get people to spend more money.

And don't even get me going on the whole Mogami cable nonsense!!!!

All of this is like the whole yeti cup, the $10 Walmart one is identical, but people get so sucked into the whole marketing thing! I've been guilty if it in the past, but shame on me!

[Barry Johns]

Originally Posted by Top Jimmy

If you ignore the added interface jitter due to reflections on a cable without matching impedance. For non-critical transfers this isn't an issue. Neither is it an issue for the receiving gear if it regenerates clock. But if the receiving gear uses the incoming PLL'd clock for driving the DA stage, then it definitely is of concern.

I won't discount that possibility, but what are the odds for the typical user?

The average user hardly, if ever, finds themselves in that situation.

[YYR123]

Originally Posted by Barry Johns

All of this is like the whole yeti cup, the $10 Walmart one is identical, but people get so sucked into the whole marketing thing!

I have the $10 cup (for the record).

But as far as the cables are concerned----I tried it with a regular cable, didn't work. I bought a digital cable and it worked ....so I assumed it wasn't possible