Quote:
Originally Posted by gondor1976
MacBook Pro
8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5
Pro Tools 10.3.7
Pro Tools 11.0.3
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Why are you running 10.3.7 on OS X 10.7.5? Its qualified on OS X 10.8.4 (and many folks are running it on 10.8.5 as well).
Why are you running Pro Tools 11.0.3 on OS X 10.7.5? Let alone a co-install, the requirements there again is OS X 10.8.4, (but again lots of folks are running 10.8.5).
I no idea if this is causing your problem, but you really need to get your system up to date and properly configured. I would *strongly* encourage you to completely wipe your OS X disk and install a full clean mountain lion install (I personally suspect 10.8.5 is OK, I know some folks are reporting rare problems) and then do a clean Pro Tools 10.3.7 and 11.0.3 install. One good way to do that (on non-retina MBPs) is to do a clean install onto an external HDD or SSD (use a bare drive with a USB to SATA adapter cable or dock) and then physically swap that drive into the Mac. If you need specific recommendations just ask (Samsung 840 Pro or Evo SSD are at the top of my list, you might be able to repurpose your current HDD as an audio/session drive).
There seems to be lots of problems induced by in-situ upgrades or migration assistant (aka migration assassin) helped upgrades. A full wipe and clean OS install is a great way to clean up a system, especially one like yours that is having problems. I am just not confident the Pro Tools uninstallers will correctly clean up the mess you have got yourself in.
And I hate to break it to you but those cheap WDC MyPassort drives are likely 4,800 rpm or 5,400 rpm and don't meet the Pro Tools Audio drive requirements. And worse they likely have nasty WDC "green" features that are notorious for causing problems with Pro Tools. So if you are not having a bunch of DAE errors with it you are likely just been lucky so far (or have "ignore errors" set and may be getting audio glitches in your sessions you are not noticing... yet). I would open the nearest window and throw that junk drive out it.
As above, you've got to get your system properly configured, go buy a 7,200 rpm external HDD or an SSD or repurpose your current boot/system drive as an audio drive as mentioned above (just install it in a USB2, USB3 and/or Firewire 800 dock). Vendors like Glyph, G-Tech, OWC and Lacie make suitable HDD and SSD models. Personaly I'd only look at an SSD drive nowadays, but if a vendor does not clearly mark an external HDD as being 7,200 rpm it's a bad sign. Broad market/consumer focused vendors like Seagate and WDC seem convinced the external drive market is an opportunity to sell their slowest cheap crap HDDs to unsuspecting consumers. Avoid at all cost.